White Burgundy Grand Cru at auction


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Burgundian wines cover approximately 25,000ha. of which a mere 200ha. is given over to the production of Grand Cru white wine. As a comparison Bordeaux acreage devoted to white cru classés is probably around 1,600 hectares. Many of these Burgundian parcels are less than 10ha which are then divided amongst many different growers. Fiona Beeston did not exaggerate when she said that “in Bordeaux there are 200 great chateaux, whereas in Bugundy there are 200 great Appellations multiplied by 200 owners, or 40,000 different wines.” The comparison does not stop there. Pitte characterised the viticulturists themselves: “the Bordelais have degrees, speak English and sometimes another foreign language, read the daily economic press, frequently travel to Paris and beyond, dress like English gentleman farmers, play tennis, even polo. In short they are chic mannered. The Burgundians, by contrast, don't often pursue further education, dress rustically or 'sportively', and their manners are proudly borne from peasantry. The former are based in their office and have employees who undertake the manual tasks, the latter, even if they have employees, are also labourers and only spend a part of their time in the office.” Note 6Bordeaux Bourgogne - les passions rivales. Hachette Litératures. 2005. Jean-Robert Pitte.

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References   [ + ]

1, 5, 6. Bordeaux Bourgogne - les passions rivales. Hachette Litératures. 2005. Jean-Robert Pitte.
2. All prices include Buyers Premium which vary according to location and auction house and were for the period 2009 – 2012.
3. Many lots of top Burgundy are sold as 'Assortment'. This article only uses whole lots with exclusive vintages/growers/bottle sizes. Bottles are converted to standard equivalents of 75cl.
4. Amongst auction records for Montrachet some are undefined in terms of their producer but these make up less than 20% of the total value covering all traded vintages for the period. It is also likely that many of these are the top-traded wines.

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